3rd time lucky for La Demande

We drove down to the canyon bottom to wild camp at the start of Sentier Martel, starting early on the wine so we would sleep early too. That plan was scuppered by Adam who wanted to walk down to the bottom after dinner for a quick look – and who should we find but our crazy Dutch friends packing all their aid gear and leopard print spandex (yes spandex) for their big route. The route was only a half day route but they were going to do it in style, hauling tonnes and tonnes of gear and starting out super late so they had to spend a night on the wall in the porta ledge. I like their style!! So we had more wine with our pals as they showed us all the gear they had begged, borrowed and stolen. The spandex was superb and we were offered some to borrow for our route the following day but declined – isn’t spandex sweaty? Perfect hydration and an early night before our big route then!! At least I fell into bed and passed out right away rather than fretting about the route all night.

So here I was gearing up at the base of La Demande again, 3rd time lucky. Well we made it although pitch 5 was a low point for me, after leading a tricky pitch and then finding the top out to the belay near impossible. My legs were shaking, arms totally pumped and felt like I was going to vomit. Had I been holding my breath? Was it exertion? Or the wine from the night before? Anyway green spell didn’t last long and two pitches later we were over half way.
The climbing felt tough and physical all the way up, definitely an old skool route. The bolting was sparse in places, bit more like a trad route really with the odd bolt in it. The last 2 6a pitches were totally amazing, proper 3D climbing. Adam back and footed his way up some huge chimney and I went for bridging like a spider. It was super cool (if a little scary on the lead) but by this time we were feeling the effects of so many physical pitches. We topped out about 5ish, so pleased to finally have completed it. Only had to hitch back down to the van some 15ks away...